EPIC Treks New Diasporas Cross Routes Roots of Ancient World
Dr Kris Rampersad 
Sopari Mai Siparia Parades connect to ancient traditions into Ancestral Lands PM Kamla Persad-Bissessar, Dr Kris Rampersad extending knowledge traditions
Stirrings of Ancestral DNA
Something peculiar stirred in my DNA watching the Divali Parade led by Prime Minister Kamla Persad-Bissessar through her hometown, Siparia.
It moved my spirit beyond the eager participants holding flickering deeyas, the night air pulsating with tassa and jhal, thumping, insistent, echoing through the generations release the spirit of ancestors. I see in silhouette, another familiar figure, who has filled my imagination, from my heritage trek as researcher/writer of Discover Trinidad and Tobago and our first award winning local series, Cross Country. But even earlier, from the spirited stories of Ma, who grew up trekking a rough trail to Sopari Mai, the legendary indigeneous Diety, the spirit-mother of the district and of our collective peoples.
She sits at the crossroads of these stories, as ancient as the rivers flowing through our land thread through time, weeping over their pain, celebrating with song, the journey of our people, and my journeys piecing together the pieces of her, severed and scattered across diaspora, like Sati.
And there was the twang of homecoming, as the strains on one of Ma’s melodies surfaced in my memory, which inspires the in the piece that follows.
This, along with previous posts on heritage, introduce with some excerpts, what is to come….
Ancient Silk Routes from Kashi
Along the ancient arteries of the Silk Routes, wanderers once traced the currents of commerce, faith, and kinship. Kashi also called Varanasi rises as the land of infinity.
It frames my past and current journeys through India and became my natural landing pad, following the fervor of Pravasi Bharatiya Divas and the sacred immersion at the legendary Maha Kumbh Mela.
It stimulated and guided, both internal and external journeys, pilgrimage and self-discovery. My heritage explorations are neither passive academia, nor objective researcher. It is a life-altering odyssey. In the echoes of my footsteps are the whispers of Gods; in the garlanded stones and trees, spirit of my ancestors wave a greeting.
This Life Altering Journeys Through India are larger than life. I am propelled to examine the span with a microscopic lenses, tuned, not just outward, but inward – personal and panoramic, layering insights and experiences to expand our intercultural understanding and filling in existing knowledge gaps.
So this year started with a call to retrace the steps of our ancestors in India, connecting with the World’s Largest Diaspora at Pravasi Bharatiya Divas in Odisha to Maha Kumbh. But my footsteps were led along their own path – deeper, further, wider into ancestral districts. I am constructing a bridge one stepping stone at a time, of the districts across the Gangetic plains, that they brought with the,m, to complete the circle of my initiatil research for Finding A Place on the processes of settlement and society-forming, in their new land.
To Sit With Gods & Scribes
The map that is unfurling is one that bellows out its own truths, and some I have been seeking to reclaim fragments to help bridge our multi-streamed cultures across time. As in our coming together for the Legendary Maha Kumbh, it is not entirely of my own volition, (the local hotel manager tells me), it is also beyond ritual, and beyond pilgrimage.
Sitting where TulsiDas penned the Ramcharitramans and Hanuman Chalisa, feeling the sun rise on my face, and set on the horizon, I am surrounded by ancient ghats and the river mirroring the sky. It carries the sounds, screams, chatter and laughter of generations of the scattered diaspora, retooling me with scope of our intersections, where physical land intersect with mind.
As a Pravasi Bharatiya Divas ambassador, and heritage educator and content innovator, the role expands beyond just experience sharing. It is testimony. It is chronicling. It mapping and weaking the threads from continent to our islands and distant parts, the intersecting sangam of Silk, Slave, and Immigrant Routes, from where I stand, straddling all, as I straddle the disciplines of transmission – media, culture and education
The knowledge merges to experiences of a lifetime of heritage exploration. It morphs into EPIC Landscapes and Mindscapes of World Heritage and History in various segments as Silk Routes, Western Frontiers. It will be expressed through various blended self-created mechanisms as CEIBA-EDUtainment and AuthenTHINK Intel and through evolving channels.
Borne by the expanding ripples of Maha Kumbh Mela, I follow the tide through to Varanasi from where I accessed ancestral districts on both maternal and paternal sides.
The impetus of my journeying is connecting the flow of cultures that converge into our living heritage. My life’s journeys have taken me through Japan, India, Europe, Africa, the Americas, Asia again, from the Caribbean. Now it brings me back as a cultural ambassador of diaspora, a Pravasi, a truth seeker, chronicling not just events, as a journalists, but as a scribe, fingering the pulse of shifting currents of world civilisations.
From where I stand, as Pravasi, returning as ambassador of Diaspora, more than the confluence of rivers, I am at the intersecting Sangam at Intersection of Silk, Slave and Immigrant Routes, straddling all.
Connecting Echoes
My footsteps connect to the echoes of other travelling knowledge seekers who came before me, preceding Fa-Hien who inspired Xuanzang, Arabs, Persians, Greeks and Italians – Abdul Razak, Al-Masudi, Megasthenes, Marco Polo and Ptolemy, Alexander the Great, others equally great as the Mahatma and Sir Vidia Naipaul and still others not so great.
Their travelogues mesh myth and history in hyperbole to feed curiosity and fire the imagination of Columbus and the colonial discoverers, mapping physical and metaphysical landscapes.
But as knowledge seekers, I tune in to the echoes from the footprints of these pilgrims, traders, scholars, etched into temple stones where they worshiped and paths they walked.
In my land and mind mapping, I am encompassing our multicultural diasporas.
Involuntarily, though millennia separate us, my journey, unplanned as his echo a similar path, in part, to the trek of Chinese Buddhist monk Xuanzang. It begun almost three decades ago, as a student of Mass Communication, touching Indian soil for the first time. The shock reverberated through me, not unlike Sir Vidia Naipaul, who produced the ill-sitting An Area of Darkness from that shock.
Some of my experience then, I released through newspaper articles and public talks, but much still remained undergoing processing. When I returned to India for the first Pravasi Bharatiya Divas, as I recalled in presentations made to Universities, I was ready to face India again. Then my explorations took me Southwards.
Eternal City of Infinity and Light
I returned this time at the start of this year as global ambassador of the Pravasi Bharatiya Divas in Odisha, which took me through through Delhi, Agra, Vrindaban, onto Prayagraj for Maha Kumbh. Then in pursuit of some elusive truths and to verify other experiences, I railed into Kashi, Varanasi.
From this seat of infinite time, I reach into other through other districts of Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and Haryana walking with Gods and Goddesses to discover the trail to my ancestors.
Xangzang writes:
…The divine spirits respectfully defended (this place); both saints and sages wandered here and reposed… The bright connected light of holy men and sages, guiding the world as the shining of the moon, have made this country eminent, and so it is called In-tu.
Return to Roots
Yet, unlike Xangzang, Ptolemy, the Arabs, Persians and Europeans, I am not an outsider, discovering a new country. I am a Pravasi, returning to the roots of my ancestors mapping, capturing and chronicling and comparing cross generational influences that passed through time. As a shoot, shorn off the roots, which extends, not disjointedly to parts scattered in far distances, I draw together the diverse experiences from diverse places. I gather the parts of diaspora, severed and scattered as Sati, to restore its story from fragments for a tale of wholeness.
From Kashi through Ancient Uttapatha Routes
We leave the dust-coated congested cityscapes of Kashi/Varanasi/Benares, the city on which time converges crowds to infinite proportions, for the open freeway. Today’s destination is Bihar: Ma Mundeshwari, the world’s oldest continuous use temple and the equally hypnotic engagement with the Eye of Sati, both potent Shakti forces on the soil of Ma as I gather the scattered fragments of Sati for MotherContinent – The MultiMedia MicroEpic that is part of this unfolding EPIC Landscapes and Mindscapes of World Heritage and History.
Little am I prepared for what was to come, as the unfolding of this entire EPIC journey which stated at the turn of the yeas as a Pravasi, great great grand-daughter of the soil returning to participate in India’s journey to Viksit Bharat. As much as it has been a journey into India’s future, it was an engagement with the rich emotional past, at potent points that present the force of alignment of the planets.
Sweeping Gangetic Plains
The road opens to a sweep of the Gangetic plains — a vast quilt of fields stitched with golden grasses, wheat, barley and corn. When I had first witnessed this landscape a quarter century earlier, I was struck, as I am now, by its uncanny resemblance to the Caroni Plains in Trinidad and the along the Berbice and Demerara River banks of Guyana where indentured Indian immigrants transplanted their lifestyles and cultures. These two countries of Latin America and the Caribbean received the largest number of early migrant settlers from India an inspire this journey of reconnections.
Pulse of Antiquity
The antiquity pulsing from the environment feeds my excitement to be on this prehistoric millennia-old silk route, one of the world’s longest and oldest land-links in continuous use. Long before recorded time, it has connected both ends of the Asian continent from India, facilitating the spread and exchange of culture, trade, peoples.
It has been a path for invaders and marauders who shaped its political landscapes, but also travelers like myself, who in trekking through, also define and redefine its cultural dimensions.
The road has seen several reincarnations, a continuity through various political epochs.
Evolved through the Puranic period as the epic Uttarapatha route, to the more recent designation as the Grand Trunk Route, this pathway has facilitated the exchange of ideas, recorded knowledge, and trade in goods and curiosities between civilisations for millennia.
Indeed, in the time of Xangzang this was a well-established and well-travelled route, that combined land and water paths, integrating the Yamuna and Ganga.
Markers of Evolution
As we drive through Bihar, the markers of evolution of this ancient Uttarapatha flash past in the scenery before me – the Dhobi Walas dotting the journey are reincarnations of the ancient providers of rest houses to weary travelers, which also encouraged and facilitated blossoming trade from merchants and caravans traversing the route, a dynamic ideal for which modern tourism still reaches.
Skyline of Sacred Trees, Mandirs and Mosques
The dotted skyline of mosques and mandirs speeding by through the landscapes of Bihar unfold cultures that spring from the roots of sacred Banyan and Peepal trees, which in turn bare the footprints and imprints of Darius the Great and other Persian Kings, the marks of conquerors as Alexander, the Moghuls – Genghis Khan, Timur and Babur, and much later Mahatma and Naipaul. These are paths trekked by Rama in his exile from Ayodhya, Gautama and countless swamis and sages seeking and spreading enlightenment.
These cross-routes of Bhakti, Buddhist, Islamic, Christian, Jain, Sikh and other traditions shape a multicultural milieu washed up from these shores and deposited in our far-off parts where they join indigeneous and migrant elements, too. They affirm an intertwined inter-religiosity that defy still-perpetuated western mono-theistic constructs.
Nature Breathes in Colours
As in the unfolding landscape before me, nature breathes in effervescent diverse colours as the saris of women draped casually and worn so effortlessly – in a way my wildly deviant western gait can never hold in place.
We whisk past humble huddled mud houses with thatched patched roofs, like the ones our forebears initially built to shelter their families, now disappeared from our landscape.
Heaps of drying hay, stored firewood, and ornate architectural mounds of animal dung flavour pastoral scenes of goats, cows, buffaloes resting in shade, swishing their tails at insects as villagers working the fields.
The roadside shops rush past, chai walas and care walas, in quick glimpses of district life,
Men under banyan trees draped in cloth fluttering over offerings of wilting flowers to distant peal of local temple bells of kul, family based, and gram, village-based temples.
Panoramic Fly-Past
This is just a panoramic fly-past, foreshadowing my yet unplanned path that will take me closer-in for lived experiences inside the heart of these far-flung village.
Clumps of mango groves tipped with blooms signal the abundance of fruit the season would bring. I long to taste the fresh fruit but it is early yet for the first mangoes.
Like the mango, peepal, banyan trees, I recognize jamun trees which were transplanted from these parts to ours, but which have disappeared from the main thoroughfares of the landscapes in Trinidad.
On my recent visit to Guyana I was happy to see that this delicious fruit is still sourced in abundance from the interior and I relived the childhood memory of eating jamun on rare visits to Mousa’s secluded hut on the edge of rainforests of South Trinidad.
Ancient Route
The highway overlaid on parts of the ancient route cut the distance by days into hours. It reminds me of a quarter century earlier trying to get from Delhi to Khajuraho which took over three not uneventful days by a not too stable vehicle. Xangzang would spend 13 years exploring on foot. Google maps tell me if I was to walk this route, it would take at minimum 18 hours – I imagine, in reality that may be about three days.
My guides – Sonam, Shipra and Deepak – who became fast friends, are graduate students of Banares Hindu University. Their programme included the course on India’s Diaspora of the Bharat Adhyayana Kendra headed by Professor Sadashiv Dwivedi, Eminent Professor of Hindu Studies in the Faculty of Arts and conducted by our own Pandita Indrani who had brought us together.
They welcomed the opportunity to exchange knowledge with a Pravasi as I with them and in these my last days in Varanasi started a friendly rivalry to see who can show me the best of Varanasi’s bests.
They are joking about the veracity of Google Maps over the more authentic provider of direction in the Paan Wala, sitting at his corner shop.
Apparently the GPS technology was failing and was leading us down a false path, so we must stop for directions.
I will continue this historic and histrionic exploration of Uttarapatha routes on the Silk and Indentured Immigrant trail which have been the conduit and catalyst of a veritable melting pot of cultures, arteries of the intersections and crossroads to which this EPIC Landscapes and Mindscapes of World Heritage and History encompass.
Navigating the corners and junctures that have been pivotal in my life’s journeys – the cultural exchange nodes as Tunisia where streams of Africa Europe and the Middle East collide and combine; Turkey where the Middle East, Europe, Arabia and Asia intersect; Japan, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and Bali stepping stones of the Pacific, and others across Europe and the Americas.
My Pravasi journeys in this EPIC extend the epic route and path through the diaspora, the world’s largest. It threads our understanding weaving intricate interconnections of this to East-West routes through the oceans to the Atlantic Middle Passage, for South America and the Caribbean.
It brings full circle the cycles of earlier prehistoric easterly cross-Pacific criss-crossings and routes. My Sangam intersects at the meeting point of Slave, Silk and Indentured Immigrant Routes, the rationale for introducing this passage out of Asia to extend UNESCO treatment of the heritage cosmos to accommodate the Asian immigrants who came West and now forms the world’s largest diaspora.
Changing Narrative To Change Mindsets
This considerably expands the historic narratives and continues my chiding and nudging the national, regional as global processes as UNESCO’s to redefine representations of our world cultures from just national, regional and continental specifications rolled out through the various instruments, to their all-encompassing global dimensions. But this requires an entire different mindset and reset of the bureaucratic operations and mechanisms of existing programmes as World Heritage, Intangible Cultural Heritage and others from how they function today to cast beyond the western, Euro-centric colonial obsession with physicality and physical structures to the underlying intangible and metaphysical foundations that connect past and current interrelationships. It would renew and enhance the ability to reshaping our futures while deepening understanding of the nature and value of cultural heritage to advance its peace processes. This is supremely important for our parts of the world and islands underrepresented in the global systems and challenged to define universal value from smaller elements.
As with this road route and tangible communication, I leverage my knowledge of communication for knowledge transmission of a deeper essence to define and evolving cultural identities as diverse rather than monocultural threads; to reshape the notion of civilizational interconnections, woven in intricate patterns into a mosaic of land, cultures, peoples, civilisations, beyond continent, to world cultures that resonate our global citizenship.
Flashforward: The Pulse Beneath the Stone
I could feel the ancient pulse resonating from the hill, through the landscape into my feet to envelop my body.
Barefoot, we walk the distance on the stones warmed by the sun and primal earth pulses. Up and up and up. The breezes carry whispers of millennia in waves of faith older than continents, older than empires, older than fragmented communities and societies across the seas searching for connections to cultural roots.
Visitor glimpse versus mindblowing Vishwarupa revelation
The destination from Varanasi through Bihar to Ma’s hill with reputed energy of Shakti. Millennia ago, Xangzang reported seeing sparks emanating from it. Among India’s millions of mandirs, it is on record as one of the world’s oldest shrines in continuous use. That’s the description in the tourist brochures and from the bloggers. What I discover will be an altogether vastly different cosmogony of interconnections, as the hill revealed to me its mind-blowing all-encompassing form, as Krishna’s Vishwarupa, without beginning, middle, or end. But I am getting ahead of my tale, and there is more than one story to be told even before we get to the ultimate revelation!
Get Involved
Make Contact to sponsor, donate, collaborate in creation of this EPIC. Here’s why creative educational initiatives need your support. Read more here: https://krisrampersad.com/resource-bridging-for-epic-treks-through-new-world-heritage
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Spread the loveWhen You World View is the World’s View! Happy New Year! As we say goodbye to - Peace Talks to Change LAC Agenda – Region Poised For New Era of Development?
Promise of change of course for development in Latin America and Caribbean as feuding leaders Guyana’s President Dr Mohamed Irfaan Ali and Venezuela’s Nicolas Maduro meet for peace talks around border controversy more details on Boredr Wars www.krisrampersad.com - A New Agenda for Guyana-Venezuela Talks – Open Letter to Comrade Gonsalves & Peace Brokers from Limboing to Parranda-ing & Junkanooing on the Borderline
An open letter to Peace Broker Dr Gonsalves et al addressing talks between Venezuela and Guyana Border Wars III with a revised agenda and a unique perspective on the ongoing conflict and actionable steps to foster peace and understanding. More at www.KrisRampersad.com - Prompt Action Needed as UN Security Council, CARICOM hold Emergency Meet on Venezuela; Maduro’s Land Grab threat to Guyana may escalate 8m refugee crisis in LAC – the Border Wars II
Prompt Action needed from Region as Repercussions set in from threats by Venezuelan President Maduro to Guyana, defiance of the ICJ provisional order and growing repercussions for Venezuela Refugee and displacement crises, regional insecurity in Latin America and the Caribbean. - ICJ to pronounce on provisional request by Guyana Dec 1 2023International Court of Justice
- Brokering the Border Wars – LAC limbo on barbed lines of demarcation as Venezuela-Guyana dispute heightens
Political stability and peace in Latin America and the Caribbean sits on a fine filigree of loosely-knotted territorial disputes. What are the implications to the wider region of the Venezuela-Guyana Dispute Dr Kris Rampersad takes a broader and deeper view of fermenting feuds…www.krisrampersad.com - When Kerry Met Kris – Negotiating Caribbean Development with US Secretary of State
he USA rejoining UNESCO and its significance for bilateral and multilateral arrangements with Caribbean countries. - UNESCO actions and funding under scrutiny, says Trinidad representativeSpread the loveProviding focus to centering the agenda needs and agendas of the developing world, Global South and
- SIDS education culture agenda before UNESCO Executive Board
Understanding the mechanisms of global governance and how to use the instruments to effect change is one of the challenges facing the region and ways to redress with Dr Kris Rampersad - T&T Offers Multicultural Experience To UNESCO’s New Humanism Thrust – In the News
Spread the lovePositioning small islands, the developing world and the Global South on the international agenda requires concerted - Critical Creative Triggers to social and economic development
Why we are failing the next generations and sending them into trigger-hapy youth and street gangs - Exclusives with Miss World! Behind the Glamour Glitter & Glow! Beauty in Gender Empowerment
ehind the Scenes on the world of glamour, glitter and glow of representing Trinidad and Tobago. Anecdotes with the First Miss World from Trinidad and Tobago, Giselle La Ronde, the first woman of colour to win the Miss Universe Competition, Janelle-Penny and the second Miss Universe from Trinidad and Tobago, Wendy Fitzwilliam. more at www.krisrampersad.com . - World Heritage Calendar Girl!Spread the loveYes! There is such a thing. Working in Heritage you could find yourself featured as a
- Thumb’s-up from the Duke of Sussex. Prince Harry reaches out
Why is Prince Harry Duke of Sussex, reaching out ? Behind the secret chuckles and squirmis of the satirical, lyrical and blunt truth-to-power,to holders of high office .. more at www.krisrampersd,com - Nobel musings – Guyanese who should have, Caribbean woman who may bring in Nobel for Literature
Nobel musings – Would a woman bring in the Caribbean’s third Nobel Laureate for Literature and this Guyanese writer who should have won Nobel - In the News Gender Justice and the National Awards
At a time when there is global focus on gender inequalities, gender inequalities persist in national awards here’s how …
